Around Cornwall on CB125F Day 8 – Land’s End
This is the first day of the second half of my travel around Cornwall. Today I went all around the most Western Tip of Cornwall and the UK. I went from Penzance to Land’s End via Minack Theatre; to St Ives via Boscaswell and visited remains of Crown and Mine Engines on the famous Tin coast. On the way back to Penzance I stopped at the Chysauster ancient village.
It was only 46 miles riding today but including stops and a lot of walking it took me 7 hours before my return to the Duporth B&B. Day was still on with sun high in the sky, so I had a lot of time for a walk around the town and a dinner. But this is how it started …
The Minack Theatre
I felt super lucky again with this delightfully warm sunny day, light winds and crisp clear air. You can’t ask for more when in such beautiful location with gorgeous views. Yes, the Minack Theatre – my first stop. I arrived a bit early, so access road to the car park was closed. This gave me a bit of time to wander around the village. There isn’t really much to see or experience except the beautiful Porthcurno beach and obviously my main reason of this visit, The Minack Theatre.
I don’t know how to begin with it. It is so amazing place with an interesting history of its establishment and reasons for being there. Then, who build it and how it was constructed is a jaw dropping story. To spoil it slightly, there was an actress full of energy and great love for theatre. But such thing was not to be seen in many miles. The actress needed both: the theatre and an audience. If you have the first, you can attract the other, she thought. Now you know how it began. The rest is here, on the Minack website but honestly, there is nothing more heart warming then a visit to this magnificent place in person.
Land’s End
One of the most visited places in Cornwall. The Land’s End is must be and see while in there. Honestly, views over the sea are spectacular but the rest is commercial. Shops with gadgets for tourists, few places to eat, have drink or an ice cream, hotel and massive car park. You can take walk to the First and Last house, closed occasionally or in the opposite direction to the Greeb Farm, Cottage and workshops. Well, taking a walk in beautiful places with pleasing views is always joyful.
In any way, this is a worth while place to stop by, have a coffee, Cornish pasty, take a nice walk and tick the box for Cornwall visit too 🙂 The only down side can be if you don’t like big crowds of holiday makers with screaming kids, choose wisely the time of the year. I guess it can be very interesting place to be, when a gale wind is howling and to watch the huge waves crashing on the rocks.
Crowns Engine Houses
I didn’t stay long in Land’s End and went for Crowns Engine with one stop at the Sennen Cove. This is kind of popular beach for surfing and wind surfing. There is also a school for that. They claim it is the finest surfing centre in Cornwall. Indeed, there were many surf board and sails on the beach and great interest from holiday makers.
I will repeat myself in saying that the roads on my route were amazing, twisty with little traffic and stunning views but this is how it is there, in Cornwall. And yes, the today’s ride was another splendid one.
To get to the Crowns Engine you need to take a left turn off the B3306 in Botallack or even better same left turn but a bit earlier into the Old Foundry road, the first, passed the St Just. This narrow, unpaved road will take you around the Botallack and at the very edge of the cliffs.
When on site, it feels like it was a big mining and processing plant. Built on the cliff’s edge hills. Difficult to build and work. The engine house – the way and where it was built is a craft on its own and I have no idea how they could possibly build it without loosing many lives. A tall structure constructed on rocky edge of a cliff. Many other buildings that were likely used for processing tin ore are scattered around. One very interesting (an arsenic labyrinth) and still in good order, is built as a zigzagging low height corridor leading to the chimney. It was part of an arsenic / tin calciner to catch the extremely poisonous fumes from tin ore processing at high temperature.
B3306 and the sandy beaches
Pictures show how super bright and sunny day it was. I felt very lucky to have it and so it was time to swing a leg and ride further to St Ives.
You can take the unpaved path and visit next and possibly even more interesting Levant mine where engine is still working. Or get back to the B3306 and follow it to the St Ives. As far as I’m aware, this is one of the most often mentioned and ridden roads in Cornwall by bikers. I think I don’t have to explain it why, you already know that 🙂 But for those who don’t – it is twisty, narrow, low to no car traffic (at times), beautiful with stunning views, simply pure joy riding.
If you have time and willingness, you can also deviate from it to see other places on the coast.
The St Ives, seems to be build for the sake of gorgeous, sandy beaches. There are 5 beaches (I mean just there because the area, it is said to have over 300) with two massive and three small once, all around the peninsula. I suspect that it was initially miner’s and /or fisherman’s village which later became sought after holiday spot. It is very busy with holiday makers, as you can imagine based on so many beaches.
Obviously, such a place with amazing Atlantic waves cannot be overlooked for surfing schools. And also, what I have noticed across the Cornwall, surf board paddling is one the most popular water activities apart from surfing itself and sailing. However, paddling is much easier and more affordable to get on then the last one, as not every one has a sailing boat there.
Well, there is a magnitude of sailors visiting Cornwall or keeping boats there during summer months but I guess you get my point.
St Ives
St Ives is a small town with sweet and charming narrow streets and mostly one way traffic is in place in this part where beaches are. Nice architecture seems to span couple centuries. Also, you will find there a harbour and Tate gallery on the seafront. If you fancy staying there for couple of days, there are many to choose from. But again, because it becomes an extra busy place, early booking will be a good idea. If you prefer caravanning or staying in holiday park (which seems to be a choice for many going to Cornwall), then there is a location for that. Actually, it will be almost every where (not my thing though).
As for myself, it is always nice to see places like that, to stop for an ice cream, coffee or something more substantial but a road calls and bike is getting hot in the sun. There is still more to experience.
Back to Penzance
Back on the road and toward an ancient village of Chysauster. Lovely day and lovely ride. It took me a very short while to get there. Unfortunately, the site was closed and first sign of that was a deserted car park. Well, nothing lost, stopped for a moment an off I was riding again but this time toward the Penzance. This again was a very short ride however. Even so it was only 46 miles and some three hours riding all together today it was most of the day. I Started at around 9 am and was back half past 4 pm. It is the time it takes at every stop to walk, eat, drink and admire the nature and views, which makes a day that long. To be honest this is exactly how I like it.
It was then perfect time for the late lunch and an early dinner. Actually, I spend some time in my room reading and relaxing before I left in the search for another place to have a nice meal. While walking along the road by the beach I noticed the Yacht Inn. I’m a sailor so this took me in. First impression, hmm, not as good as The Turks Head. I was then lead to the back garden, which is surrounded by other buildings. OK, I thought, lets check what is on the menu.
Then another surprise, menu only available online via the app or website, same for the beer. No bar service, only delivery to the table. I manged to have a chat with a guy and asked about Today’s Catch. He didn’t know, so went back to ask himself. Few minutes later he returned and said – cod. I laughed. Fishermen are all over the place and having any fresh fish is effortless. The Yacht Inn and no fresh or any special fish on the menu, what a disappointment. So, I end up with scampi (not the greatest either) and some beer I even do not remember.
Next time, The Turks Head or The Dolphin Tavern, I’ve heard is pretty good.
After an average meal I went for a walk around the harbour and marina, which toped up my interesting day. Tomorrow. couple of hours ride to Tintagel along the Atlantic coast. And yes, the map.
