Around Cornwall on CB125F Day 5 – Bodmin to Fowey
I arrived in Bodmin pretty soaked the day before and weather for today wasn’t encouraging. Heavy clouds with thick drizzle showers, light fog with very warm and so humid air. Not the best combination for motorcycle riding. If it is warm then you need an airy clothing but if it rains than it should be something to keep you dry. On this day conditions, neither option was a good choice. It was like – get wet or get sweat, unless one has quality GoreTex 🙂
On My Way
Regardless of the weather, I went out to my first point of call, that is Lanhydrock House. It is just 2 miles from Castle Canyke Farm, where I stayed. I hoped to see the house but at that time only gardens were open. Short walk from the car park or maybe not that short. It felt longer possibly because of the drizzle and fog. I think, this visit would be a lot more joyful on the nice, sunny day because location is really great. The gardens are spacious, nicely designed and well maintained as well as interesting. So the house seems to be of the same.
Well, as mentioned in my other post, at this time of August 2020, all visits had to be pre-booked and each was at very specific time slot. My next stop was in Fowey with ‘claiming’ to the St Catherine’s castle and then The Eden Project. This is where my slot was, so unfortunately time limited on the way.
Fowey
After 20 minutes ride Fowey welcomed me with its narrow and some very steep and sharp bending streets. Lovely views over the river Fowey estuary and its other bank from many places. Plenitude of boats moored up on both sides and in the middle anchorages, what a beautiful site. Luckily some sun broke through the clouds to make it even greater. The Fowey itself is rather a small town, build very tightly on the steep shores.
On a West pointy cliff of the Readymoney Cove, with its well sheltered and popular even on the rainy days beach, there are ruins of St Catherine’s Castle. It is a bit of walk to get there. I had to leave my bike on the street leading to the beach as there is no place to park. From the beach you could walk up the cliff but the path was closed, so the only way was to go further back, via private access road. I guess you could ride up to the castle on the enduro / trail bike. This is lovely path in the woods but most likely it would be very badly taken by the locals. And actually at the beginning of the Readymoney Road there is a sign forbidding motor vehicles excluding for access to properties. So only walk or bicycle 🙂
From the Castle views are much wider and open on the Channel. Well, what left out of the Castle and I don’t think if was a big one. I’m not even sure if the name Castle is right for it as it looks like a fortified station / battle point or something like that, a turret maybe? Those ruins are really tiny but definitely not easy to build and conquer. To be honest, on the Devon and Cornish shores you will find many fortified castles serving important roles in their times.
The Eden Project
It was time to leave this at least to say an airy place with sun shining and gap between showers, where I was able to dry out a bit. After some few minutes I re-joined my bike and we were off to the famous Eden Project.
I realized again how ill prepared I was for this trip. Because for the most of the time it was raining I did not use my mobile to take pictures. I used it for navigation and didn’t want it to get wet. I had Akaso cameras but left them in my B&B. Battery life on those is very short and taking pictures is rather inconvenient. But still, I should have it with me and make use of it, no excuse.
The Eden Project is famous for its Biomes and location in the ex open mine or how they call it a crater. Created for educational purposes and houses plants from all over the World. Interestingly displayed and very unique place to visit. The main downside it is supper popular and so extremely busy for most of the year.
I spend there around 2.5 hours walking from the car park, back and in the Biomes. The best is to plan this visit for half a day or take it fully. A lot to see and when I was there not everything was open. It is massive place with huge visitor centre and another big place in the Biome where you can get refreshments and take a rest.
Back to Bodmin
I have returned after 30 minutes ride over again lovely roads and stopped by in town to see the centre. Unfortunately, all of interesting places were closed, like an old style railway station with one of the last remaining steam trains going short route between Bodmin and Boscarne. There is also a Bodmin Jail and nice church in the centre. If you fancy a solid and tasty dinner I would recommend The Borough Arms. It is really nice place, where I had a delicious meal.
Complete round trip from Bodmin to Fowey took me well over 6 hours, where riding was only 1.5 hours plus 4.5 hours walking. It was also the shortest ride, just 31miles. You can see the whole trip on this map.
As mentioned earlier, I stayed in Castle Canyke Farm B&B run by very friendly hosts. On the outside – very modern, on the inside – looks kind of medieval with low ceilings and dark brown beams. Nice and cosy rooms, large, I mean really large double bedrooms. Very clean, comfortable with an-suite bathroom and all facilities you could think of, including portable heater. In the morning a breakfast made practically to your specification. Outstanding.
The only minus point is its location at the very busy A38, but fortunately mainly during daytime. Pricewise – OK for the service you get but it was the most expensive stay on my whole travel – £75 per night. The average price per night for the remining places was – £53.
